Sweat trickled down my face as I continued up the crumbling staircase. It was another sunny afternoon on St. Thomas, and I had decided to go solo exploring in Charlotte Amalie. I carried my trusty camera around my neck, the strap now soaked in sweat. I followed the colorful signs that pointed towards Blackbeard’s Castle, the reason I was headed up this brutal set of stairs.
Before I had reached my actual destination, I was snapping pictures of flowers along the walkway. There’s this beautiful contrast between the natural growth and the historic buildings that have been here for hundreds of years. I rounded the corner to the front of the building, only to find they were closed. “Typical unprepared tourist move,” I laughed to myself.
The most I saw of Blackbeard’s Castle from behind the fortress walls.
Of course my climb up the hill was not in vain, because there was a beautiful view of the bay. A massive Carnival Cruise ship had docked, explaining the crowds of tourist I weaved through to make my way up to the castle. They wore colorful Hawaiian shirts, wide sun hats, and carried shopping bags. For some reason I still felt above those people, as if after two weeks of living here, I knew more about the island than they did. But I was also the one who went to go see Blackbeard’s Castle when it was closed. So was there really any difference between those people and me?
A Carnival Cruise ship docked in Charlotte Amalie, bringing in a number of vacationers.
Upon arriving to the islands, my first gut reaction was to not be a tourist. Any time I travel I tend to avoid this category of people. In Jamaica Kincaid’s extended essay, A Small Place, she puts it frankly, “A tourist is an ugly human being.”
In this piece, Kincaid is writing about her home Antigua, an island found in the Lesser Antilles. She critiques Antigua’s corrupt government, the tourism industry, and the British colonial legacy. Antigua is similar to St. Thomas, and to many other Caribbean islands that are dependent upon tourism.
I’ve been contemplating this idea of what a tourist is for some time now, and more importantly where I fit into the overall system.
Even as I tried to not be a ‘tourist’ it was still painfully obvious that I was not from here. If someone saw me out on the street, camera in hand, they would know this. There are plenty of growing pains involved when you aren’t able to fit into a group. You feel out of place. You walk into a classroom and everyone looks because you are the one that stands out. You have to navigate through the uncertainty of living in a new place as a cultural outsider.
I waded through my sea of turbulent thoughts as I walked down the city sidewalks. Am I a stranger? A foreigner? A tourist? Or am I just another person trying to figure out where I belong?
One of the many alleyways in Charlotte Amalie that you can lose yourself in.
All of these labels should be avoided, because no one falls under them perfectly. Rather than focusing on a label, we need to focus on how one behaves while they travel. Being respectful of the people and eager to learn should be a priority for anyone exploring a new place.
I can’t control how someone perceives me. If someone thinks I’m just another tourist, that reflects more on them than it does me. If they take the time to learn more about me, they will find there’s a lot more to me than any initial impression.
I’ve met St. Thomians who are willing to get to know me, past the giddy girl who will run full speed into the ocean. They’ve been gracious enough to share their island with me. In turn, this diverse island has completely opened up my world. Those that I thought were natives to the island come from all over the Caribbean. Students at UVI come from St. Kitts, Antigua, and Dominica, and they all offer a different perspective. I cannot assume I know anything about someone. A native or a tourist.
No matter where we come from, it is important to share and educate others about our homes. If you are the one traveling, be ready to learn and appreciate a different place. Instead of asking what you can gain from a trip, be open to new experiences. Many travelers have dealt with the uncomfortable feelings of not belonging, but ultimately I know it will be worth it.
I thought back to the people from the cruise ship. They would only catch a glimpse of St. Thomas before they headed off to another tropical island. I realized I have been afforded an opportunity that very few are given. I get to experience St. Thomas through all it’s seasons. I have the chance to understand a side of this place a tourist may never see.
As I rode back to campus on the Safari, we passed a school, and I watched the children in their uniforms stream out the front doors. Although it was such a common place thing, it was beautiful to me. I thought about what it’d be like for them one day, as they told others about how they grew up, where they went to school, the stories the island had given them.
Life Updates
I got sick earlier this week, but I’m feeling better now. I’m excited for our three day weekend and I hope to explore a bit before we buckle down for Hurricane Irma. Right now it is still too early to tell how hard it will hit St. Thomas, but I may not have internet access and phone service for awhile. So it may be a bit before you hear anything on the blog. I will try to keep friends and family updated as best as I can. If you’d like to see more pictures from Charlotte Amalie click here!